
Kerry tour, June 2024 - HIBC
8 intrepid HIBC cyclists spent a week cycling around the Wild Atlantic Coast in SW Ireland. Here is what we got up to.
Day 1
A mildly lumpy start with our first real hill straight after lunch, a short section of gravel and then flat roads to the coast to visit the statue of Brendan at Fenit.
Brendan, with Will, at Fenit (Chris Sidell)
Day 2
Our first big Irish pass – Conor Pass – the biggest cycling pass in Ireland. It was a bit misty and murky at the top, and whilst mostly quiet there were one or two more cars than some would have liked. Then a fine descent into Dingle, and a quick 55km loop around the spectacular Dingle peninsula.
Dan, Chris, Stuart, and Stephen at the top of Conor Pass (Ian Beardsley)
Bruce and Stuart on the Dingle Peninsula (Will James)
Day 3
We cycled right round Dingle Bay with a fine lunch stop in Larkin’s pub. The day finished with the ferry to Valentia Island and the rather splendid Royal Valentia Hotel.
Heading towards Valentia Island on the ferry (Will James)
Day 4
The best day so far. An invigorating dip in the sea was followed by cycling through stunning scenery on Valentia Island. We kept stopping to admire what was surely the best view of the tour… until the next one came along. This was followed by a sod of a hill (Cúm an Easpaig) which we could see ahead of us from miles away, and then the unexpected bonus of the Skelligs Chocolate Factory, just when I’d given up hope of a café stop. We also learnt that rainfall radar predictions aren’t 100% accurate; the last 25km into Kenmare was 100% wet.
Dan cycling on Valentia Island (Chris Sidell)
Day 5
Also the best day so far. Two big passes. We all did Healy Pass – a lovely ascent with the wind on our backs followed by sweeping downhill curves which meant experiencing head winds, cross winds, and tail winds at high speed, all in about 15 seconds flat, over and over again. Some returned via Cara Pass; the rest climbed the Borlin Valley – remote wilderness cycling on a single-track road with no cars, followed by an equally lonely and desolate but breathtakingly beautiful and exhilarating descent.
Ben looking forward to the Healy Pass switch-backs (Will James)
Day 6
Another contender for the best day so far. We ground out the miles back to the tour starting point and then set off on a loop over the Gap of Dunloe, which is the most twee pass I’ve ever ridden. Straight out of Tolkien – there were thatched hobbit houses, ridiculously pretty lakes, and lots of horses and carts to negotiate on the narrow road. We then descended into the remote Black Valley to the smallest, most eccentric café ever before our last descent back to Killarney.
Stuart, Will, Stephen, Ian, Chris, and Dan at the top of Gap of Dunloe (Unknown)
Our road up the spectacular Gap of Dunloe (Stephen Harbottle)
Tour stats
- Tourists: 8 – Ben, Bruce, Chris, Dan, Ian, Stephen, Stuart, Will
- Days: 6
- Total distance cycled: 635km
- Descent (and ascent): 7075m, 80% Everest
- Café stops: Too numerous to record
- Best café: Couldn’t possibly say, but the best cake was the bread pudding at Kells, the best chocolate tasting experience was at the Skelligs Chocolate Factory, and the best mint tea was hand-picked leaves from the Killing Time Café; this has to be the best mint tea this side of New York made by a platinum-disc winning proprietor.
- Cosiest night: 8 in a room in Dingle
- Ferries: 3 (with zero sea-sickness incidents)
- Punctures: 0
- Spare inner tubes carried: 20
- Tour rating: 6 stars!
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